TDM900 : Fitting BMW hand-guards

This is how I fitted my BMW R1150GS Hand protectors on my TDM900.

Start with a TDM with no Hand Guards !



• Socket set including Torx and Allen bits.
• 6.8mm Drill bit
• Electric drill
• M8 thread cutter (or tapper)
• Cutting lubrication paste
• Vice or workmate
• File or rasp
• Hacksaw

For the Yamaha TDM900 you will need to purchase the parts from a reputable dealer – I bought mine from Motobins and their part number is 61365. My kit arrived next day and had all the necessary bits in.


(image)1 - Check that you have all the required parts and tools.

(image)2 - First we need to drill a hole in the bar end weight to enable the bolt supplied by BMW to fit and hold the end of the hand-guard on the end of the handlebars. Remove the Bar end weights from the ends of the handlebars – be careful not to drop them at the extent of the thread as they are fairly heavy.

(image)3 - Secure the bar end weights in a vice or workmate type bench and prepare to drill the holes. You need a 6.8mm drill bit to be able to tap the soft alloy and ensure that there is enough metal to form a good thread. Start slowly with the drill – the worst bit is getting the drill to go straight. There is a Torx receptacle in the end of the bar end weight and this somewhat prevents a very smooth start, but once it is out of the way the rest is plain sailing. Take your time and drill at a slower speed than you would normally. Every once in a while remove the drill bit from the hole and clean out the swarf (be careful if you are handling the bar end weight as it will become very hot during the drilling!). Carry on until you have drilled a hole straight in to the bar end weight to approx. 25 – 35mm. The depth depends on your bottle and how long the screws are that go into the holes !



(image)4 - Once you have drilled both bar end weights allow them to cool. Whilst they cool, position the inner mounts on your handlebars ready to accept the hand-guards. Follow the instructions that are provided with the kit and position the hand-guards – I found it easier to undo the cable ties currently on the bars and position the inner brackets. You can feed the loom from the switchgear through the holes in the hand-guards as BMW state, but the brake hose, clutch cable and throttle cables are more hassle than it’s worth – just leave them where they are. I moved the brake hose temporarily by undoing the banjo bolt in the brake reservoir a tiny amount and then nipping it back up – this made it easier to position the right hand-guard.

5 - Once the hand-guards are in position you can think about securing them. The easiest way I found of tapping the thread in the bar end weights was to replace them in the end of the handlebar. This prevents them moving to a certain degree, but I cannot guarantee that it won’t damage your handlebars – mine were fine and nothing happened – this is just a disclaimer that you do it your own way! If you have a bench vice I would recommend using that. The tapping itself is not too traumatic. I had never tapped a thread before yesterday and mine came out fine. The tip that I was given that helped was to tap the first little bit and then remove the bit and clean out the swarf. I used WD40 for this, but use whatever you think suitable. This then made sure the rest of the thread cutting went smoothly. Again – just take your time.

6 - Once the thread has been cut and the swarf cleaned out you can then think about the actual attachment of the hand guards. The inner parts are not too much trouble, but if you were to fit the screws in the bar ends you would find some play evident. The play occurs because of the countersunk washer provided with the BMW kit – it is made to fit another bike after all! To get round this problem I simply used a file to take off some of the material from the countersunk washer. Hold this part in a vice with the countersunk side facing down. File away the top until there is no chamfer left and it is fairly flat. Don’t go too far because this washer still needs to go through the hole on the end of the hand-guard. I also cut the screws down slightly – if you do this don’t forget to put an M8 nut on it first.

(image)7 - Once the above has been done all you should now need to do is tighten the bolts and stand back to admire your handiwork. I found that I could move the hand-guards slightly so that the bottom of them just skimmed the top of the fairing screw nearest the tank. This wasn’t a problem for me so I didn’t bother moving the handle bars at all.


(image)8 - I found that the front brake lever was touching the hand-guard so I loosened the hand-guard off a bit and adjusted the span to compensate – no problem now! Obviously, if you have undone the banjo bolt for at the fluid reservoir make sure it is torqued up and that the brakes work efficiently BEFORE you ride !

An excellent tutorial from Simon (text & pics) / Carpe-TDM Forum.


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