TDM900 : HID conversion kit installation

HID headlights produce light with a high voltage electric arc. These headlights are more efficient than the standard halogen headlights, they also last longer but they are more expensive. The light source has a different shape and require a different reflector to give a correct beam pattern. They must also be equipped with a level compensation device otherwise it will blind the incoming traffic. They also need electronic driver to work. You may find some HID kits that replace the standard H7 bulbs. Be aware that even if these HID kits give a more powerful light beam, the light beam may be degraded because the reflector is not made for an HID light source. They don't have any level-correction device.

1 - First of all check the regulation in progress in your country on the lighting of the vehicles. In most European countries the HID kits are not legal.

2 - All OEM HID include a level correction device to compensate the beam height according to the vehicle level. This is not the case on an adaptation kit as described here. It is absolutely necessary to carefully check the height of the beam to avoid any trouble of the other users.

3 - Don't touch the HID bulb or the ceramic insulator that runs from the base of the bulb to the top. If you do then premature failure of the bulb may occur. REMEMBER! The HID kit needs around 30000 volts to initiate the arc in the bulb. This is a lot of voltage and is dangerous. Do not put yourself in danger - if you are unsure of the fitment of your kit please refer to the manufacturer or supplier.

4 - Don't site your ballast under the left hand fairing ! It interferer with the ECU, causing ignition failure.


The main thing before installing the whole kit is to test that it works. Follow the manufacturers' instructions on testing the kit. What I did was to connect both units to their relative bulb connectors and then run the bike. Make sure that the HID bulb is suspended in mid air and the wires are not touching anything metal. Obviously to test the system you will need to re-connect the battery! Once the test has been performed successfully you are ready for the install. Disconnect the battery again !

1 - First of all you need to make sure all the bits are with the HID kit.

(pic by HIDS4U)
(pic by HIDS4U)
(pic by HIDS4U)

2 - Put the bike on the center stand (if it has one) or have a friend hold it upright whilst the bike is facing a wall or the garage door. Mark the position of the front wheel. Make sure the headlight is on and mark the beam pattern somehow (I used insulating tape). This is your reference point in case you need to adjust the beam alignment.

3 - Make sure the bike is in a secure position to enable the necessary work to take place.

4 - Remove the seat and place it aside. Disconnect the battery for safety.

5 - Remove the screen (being careful with the well nut at the centre bottom of the screen - it's easily lost!)


6 - Remove the inner top fairing. Remove the right hand side fairing (as if you were on the bike). You should now have easy access to everything.


7 - Remove the H7 bulbs from their holders at the back of the headlights. It depends on where you buy the HID units from as to the specifics of your bulbs. My bulbs had to be pushed into a holder that made the base an H7 bulb. It was a very tight fit and needed a smidge of lubrication to get it to the necessary position. Once this is done you can place the HID bulbs into their place. Feed the wires from the HID bulbs through the rubber boot that sits on the back of the headlight. Put this back into place.

8 - Now for the ballasts. These are the main power units and need to be sited away from any electrical equipment that they may interfere with. I originally put one under the left hand fairing attached to the ECU unit and it made the bike difficult to start. The pulses from the ballast were interfering with the pulses for the ignition. Don't site your ballast under the left hand fairing ! I put one ballast under the right hand side fairing attached to the fairing support bracket with tie wraps (make sure they are up to the job!).

The other is sited in front of the clocks behind the front fairing held in place with tie wraps.


9 - Once the ballasts are in place connect the loom up. Re-connect the battery and operate the system to ensure correct functioning. Once checked and found to be alright you can tidy everything up. I wrapped some of the cables for my system in black insulating tape for tidiness. On other parts I used tie wraps for the securing of the cables.

10 - Replace all the removed panels and the seat and you are nearly there.

11 - Hopefully the bike will not have moved in the last hour or so you have taken to do this. Check the front wheel position against the mark you made earlier. Then have a friend hold the bike upright again and compare the beam pattern. Adjust as necessary (quite difficult to do as the adjuster was made by a complete biff!) That should do it. Go and spread enlightenment throughout your area !

Let there be light


Text & pics by Simon Stunell (Stunts) / Carpe-TDM forum.
HID conversion kit by HIDS4U.


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